Sugo povero (“poor sauce”), or sugo finto (“fake sauce”), is a simple, uncomplicated tomato sauce. Both monikers imply that sauces made without even a hint of meat are somehow inferior to their meat-based counterparts. This stems from the fact that in many island cultures, eating meat was a luxury reserved for holidays and special occasions. A meatless pasta condiment made with tomato was no cause for celebration. Today, however, simple tomato sauces are pure comfort food, and for families who still grow and bottle their own tomatoes, they are an expression of their commitment to the land. The simplicity of this recipe demands excellent ingredients. The closest I get to reproducing sugo povero with canned tomatoes (as opposed to homegrown and canned) is with an American brand, Bianco DiNapoli, and Italian brand Gustarosso. These tomatoes, grown in California and Campania, respectively, add beautiful structure, brightness, and acidity. You can really serve sugo povero with any pasta shape you like—it is one of the truly universal sauces—but I love serving it with Ravioli panteschi. The tomato enhances rather than challenges the delicate flavor of the ricotta-and-mint filling. The sauce also pairs beautifully with Potato-and-herb-filled culurgiones.