Pasta
Broccoli and Almond Pesto
Inspired by my pesto-oriented island travels, I like to give cooked vegetables the pesto treatment, subbing them for the herb component. Broccoli and cauliflower and any of their relatives are great for making a sweet, creamy condiment with wonderfully layered flavors reminiscent of the islands’ winter vegetable recipes. Cook the pasta in the broccoli water to maximize flavor and minimize waste.
Bring a large pot of water to a boil over high heat. Salt the water until it tastes like a seasoned soup. Add the broccoli (1 lb) and cook until soft, 4 to 5 minutes.
Use a strainer or spider to transfer the broccoli to a bowl and set aside. Keep the water in the pot at a boil.
Heat olive oil (¼ cup) in a large skillet over low heat. When the oil begins to shimmer, add the garlic (2 cloves) and cook until the garlic just turns golden, about 3 minutes.
Add the broccoli, season with salt, and increase the heat to medium-high. Cook covered, stirring occasionally, until the broccoli is super soft and nearly falling apart, about 10 minutes.
Transfer the broccoli and garlic to a food processor. Add the almonds (1 cup) and pulse until chunky. Slowly add the remaining 2 Tbsp olive oil and blend until smooth.
Transfer the pesto to a large bowl. Stir in the pecorino (1 cup).
Add the pasta (1 lb) to the broccoli cooking water (be sure it’s at a boil) and cook until al dente if it’s dried, or cook until it floats and loses its raw flavor if it’s fresh.
Drain the pasta, reserving some of the cooking water. Add the pasta to the pesto and stir to coat. Add some of the reserved pasta cooking water a spoonful at a time as needed to loosen the sauce. Season with salt to taste.
Food processor vs. mortar and pestle
Let’s face it—making pesto with a mortar and pestle is romantic, but not always practical when you have to get dinner on the table. Most Italians today use a food processor to make pesto, and you can too. But, if you prefer the old-school mortar-and-pestle method, here’s how to do it:
Combine the nuts, garlic, herbs, capers (if using), and a heavy pinch of salt in the mortar and mash them into a paste with the pestle. Add a bit of olive oil, but only as much as the herbs need in order to hydrate into a paste—no more than ¼ cup. If you add too much oil, the herbs will turn from green to blackish. When you have a smooth paste, transfer it to a separate bowl and mix with any other ingredients the recipe calls for. Serve with pasta, tossing well to coat.
Purchase cookbook to comment
