Fish
Grilled Whole Fish Stuffed with Lemon and Herbs
Italian fishmongers and supermarkets sell whole fish with the heads on. This is not only so you can look into the fish’s eyes to ensure they are clear and the fish is fresh. It’s also because islanders love the cheek meat in the head. If headless fish are all they’ve got where you shop, that’s fine, too—you’ll just miss out on the delicious fish cheeks. And if you can’t get your hands on branzino, use sea bream or trout instead. Either way, be sure the fish is gutted before you head home. Making bundles of herbs with kitchen twine helps keep them from slipping out of the fish. As soon as the fish goes on the grill, its proteins react with the heat and the skin sticks to the grates immediately. To prevent sticking, brush both sides of each fish with mayonnaise before placing them on the grill. Unlike olive oil, it won’t slide off!
Heat a gas grill to medium-high, or prepare a charcoal grill for indirect cooking over medium-high heat.
Divide the parsley (1 bunch), mint (1 bunch), and thyme (1 bunch) into four equal portions and tie them into bunches using kitchen twine.
Season the cavity of each fish (4) with salt and pepper, then fill with a layer of lemon slices (1 whole) and one of the herb bunches.
Salt the fish skin, then brush the fish on both sides with mayonnaise (2 Tbsp) and place on the grill.
Cook until the fish is firm to the touch, the eyes are white, and the skin is slightly blistered, about 12 minutes, turning them over carefully with a fish spatula midway through.
Debone and fillet the fish (see below), drizzle with olive oil, and serve.
Islanders cook all sorts of fish cuts, but whole fish are a common way to enjoy a fresh catch, and they are almost always cooked with their heads on. At trattorias, you can ask your server to clean the fish for you when they bring your cooked dish to the table (there’s no judgment!), but it’s pretty simple to do yourself using two utensils (a fork and knife or even two spoons will work).
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