I fell in love with the food of Ponza, an island off the coast of Lazio, while on assignment for the New York Times—the article was a profile of the island’s food, sea, and culture, and it was my first byline in print for the paper way back in 2011. My intro to the cucina ponzese was at Da Gerardo, a very simple trattoria accessed via a steep hike up from Frontone beach across the bay from the main port. The place perfectly sums up the island’s food culture: close to the sea but reliant on the land. Perched above the water, this tiny, shacklike trattoria serves island classics that are almost exclusively land-based: braised rabbit, legume soup, simmered greens. The closest menu item to seafood is fried eel, which has been fished in Ponza since antiquity. The best thing served there is the earthy, vegetal, olive oil–enriched zuppa di cicerchie. Cicerchie (called grass peas in English) are tiny pods that resemble little beige fava beans or flattened chickpeas. They have grown on the island since at least Roman times and have a distinct nutty flavor. They also contain a neurotoxin, but don’t be alarmed! You’d have to eat a cicerchie-rich diet for a while before you suffered any grave consequences. If you want to be extra careful and eliminate any danger, simply blanch the cicerchie three times before cooking, discarding the water each time. Cicerchie are sold online, but you can substitute chickpeas if you wish.