Soups and Stews
Fava, Pea, and Chickpea Soup
Maccu di fave, a dish made from dried fava beans, takes a number of forms in Sicily. In some parts of the island, it’s a silky puree made from reconstituted dried fava beans. In others, it’s more of a minestra (brothy soup) with whole beans cooked in seasoned vegetable stock until they break apart. In southeastern Sicily, the richest version is made for the Feast of San Giuseppe (Saint Joseph), March 19, and features a medley of dried legumes cooked into a thick stew. Using many beans is symbolic of emptying the winter cupboard of preserved foods to make way for the bounty of spring and summer. I love this latter version, which I also enjoy on days that aren’t Saint Joseph’s Day, because it gives me an excuse to eat a fiber-rich assortment of ingredients that I always have in my pantry in odd leftover amounts, and a delicious way to use them up.
Heat the olive oil (¼ cup) in a large pot over low heat.
When the oil begins to shimmer, add the garlic (2 cloves), onion (½ medium), carrot (1), celery (1 stalk), and fennel (1 small).
Season with salt (to taste) and cook until the vegetables are very soft, about 30 minutes.
Add the favas (8 oz), dried peas (4 oz), and chickpeas (4 oz) to the pot.
If using fresh or frozen peas, add them at the end when the beans are close to done.
Add enough water to cover by a few inches, cover, and simmer until the favas are very tender, about 3 hours; the peas and chickpeas will fall apart before then.
Season with salt and pepper and serve warm, at room temperature, or cold, with a dusting of fennel fronds and olive oil drizzled on top.
Puree—To make a pureed version of maccu di fave, follow the procedure above, but use 1 lb dried fava beans instead of a mix of legumes. Cook the favas beyond the point of tenderness, until they are falling apart, then puree with an immersion blender. Serve as a side dish or top with sautéed greens and serve as a main, but always with a healthy glug of olive oil spiraled over top.
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