If you’ve spent any time in Rome and haven’t tried rigatoni con la pajata, you need to reconsider your life choices. This dish—pasta tossed with the tender, milk-filled intestines of unweaned veal slow-cooked in tomato sauce—speaks volumes of the Roman penchant to use every part of the animal. In this case, the veal intestines are tied into rings bound with mesenteric fat (the layer of fat surrounding the intestines) and simmered in tomato sauce, each one bursting with creamy sweetness. In Rome, pajata tossed with rigatoni is more common, but you can also find pajata in umido, a pasta-free version served as a secondo. If you are able to find pajata in the US, I need to know your source. It’s tough to track down even outside Rome, so consider cooking it on your next trip to the Italian capital, or at least try it at a trattoria!