It’s a myth that Romans don’t love rules—they’re obsessed with them, at least when it comes to food. Case in point: giovedì gnocchi. Thursday is gnocchi day, and everyone knows it. But not all gnocchi are created equal. These days, gnocchi di patate are often dense, gummy, and sticky, the result of industrial production and shortcuts. Even small neighborhood pastifici tend to rely on dehydrated potato flakes and mediocre flour, which produce a pasty texture and rob gnocchi of their signature lightness. I’ll never forget having to cancel a TV shoot at a pastificio in Testaccio when we turned up to film their gnocchi production, only to find they had poured a massive bag of potato flakes into the mixer with hot water. Not exactly what the crew and I had in mind. If, like me, you’re after soft, pillowy dumplings that practically dissolve on your tongue, you’re going to have to make them yourself. Roman lore says the secret to ethereal gnocchi lies in using dry, starchy potatoes grown at high altitudes, ideally from Avezzano, in Abruzzo’s Marsica plateau. If those aren’t available, seek out old, yellow-fleshed potatoes with low moisture content and dense texture. And whatever you do, skip the food processor. A ricer keeps the potatoes fluffy and helps preserve that delicate, tender bite that defines good gnocchi. Once you’ve nailed the texture, don’t drown them in sauce. A gentle coating is all they need—try amatriciana, the rich tomato sauce from involtini, Ragù, or oxtail sauce. Feeling extravagant? Fry the gnocchi until golden and crisp, then serve them over a pool of cacio e pepe sauce.

Fun fact: Gnocca is Roman slang for a hot chick and her lady parts!