Su Filindeu
Su Filindeu
"Threads of God"
The process of making su filindeu is somewhat like that of Chinese hand-pulled noodles: a high hydration dough is stretched and pulled into long strands by skilled hands. In the case of su filindeu, though, the strands are pulled over a woven disk in three intersecting layers to dry, then broken into pieces and cooked in mutton or lamb broth with melted pecorino cheese. Generally speaking, durum wheat pasta doughs are elastic but not extensible; that is, they fall apart when stretched. Considering durum wheat is the go-to for pasta flour in Sardinia, cooks have invented creative ways to manage hydration, kneading, and resting times to make the flour act the way they need it to in order to make long strands. It’s magical to behold. To that end, this is a very wet dough that is kneaded and rested for a long time, enabling the gluten to develop a strong network, then relax enough to stretch into su filindeu. Mastering the stretching technique takes time. Watch the video via the QR code to see my teacher, Gianfranca Dettori, demonstrating her technique. You can get the traditional disk for drying su filindeu in the Barbagia area of eastern Sardinia, or substitute a flat wicker disk roughly 2 feet in diameter.
Ingredients (3)
Ingredients (3)
Instructions
Mix the water (¾ cup) and salt (½ tsp) together in a small bowl.
Combine the semolina (2 cups) and 5 ¾ oz of the salted water in a medium bowl and stir together with clean hands, gradually incorporating the semolina.
Turn the dough out onto a clean, dry work surface and knead energetically for 10 minutes.
The dough will be pliable and slightly tacky. Return the dough to the bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and set aside to rest at room temperature for 30 minutes.
Uncover the bowl and turn the dough out onto a clean, dry work surface. Sprinkle a bit of the salted water over the dough and knead again for 10 minutes, pressing so energetically that you shred the dough slightly as you work it.
Return the dough to the bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and set aside to rest at room temperature for 2 hours to relax the gluten until it becomes pliable.
Uncover the bowl. Pull a fist-size piece of dough from the ball, then press and roll it into a log 1 inch wide. Fold it in half, then roll it again into a 1-inch-wide log. Sprinkle over small amounts of water and knead vigorously to incorporate.
Repeat until the dough is very elastic. You will feel it becoming easier to roll and therefore stretch as you work. You may not need all the water.
Notes
Notes
While kneading, test the elasticity of the dough by rolling it into a log and gently pulling. If it breaks apart instantly, you have lots more kneading to do. If it stretches, you’re on the right track! You may need to test the dough several times before it’s just right for pulling into su filindeu.
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