In Italy, iced coffee as North Americans know it isn’t really a thing, despite Starbucks gaining ground. Here, cold coffee means caffè freddo, espresso brewed in the morning and chilled in recycled juice bottles. You might get a single ice cube if you’re lucky, but forget anything close to a venti-size cold brew. And like many seasonal habits here, caffè freddo is strictly a summer affair.

The same goes for caffè shakerato, Rome’s frothy answer to scorching afternoons. A perfect shakerato is dead simple: a shot of hot espresso, shaken hard over ice with an optional spoonful of sugar until it forms a dense, velvety foam. Strained into a chilled glass, it’s all at once cold, creamy, and caffeinated—with zero dairy.

For the best shakerato in town, head to the pros. Roscioli Caffè near Campo de’ Fiori uses Torrefazione Giamaica’s wood-roasted beans to strike the perfect balance of sweetness and bitterness. Sant’Eustachio Il Caffè still nails it, too, even with its tourist crowds, thanks in part to a charming mid-century shaking machine that whirs away behind the bar.