Porchetta is tied with mortadella as one of Rome’s most beloved sandwich fillings. Unlike mortadella, which is brought down from Bologna, porchetta comes from pork artisans in the Apennines and Roman suburbs like the Castelli Romani. While the official Porchetta di Ariccia IGP (Indicazione Geografica Protetta) has its roots just outside the city, much of what’s sold under that name in Rome’s markets and alimentari is underseasoned and overcooked. Even worse, the IGP certification only requires that the pork be seasoned and roasted in the area, while the meat can come from who knows where. If you would like to have the real deal, skip Ariccia altogether and high-tail it for Norcino Bernabei in the small town of Marino—or hope that Vitaliano Bernabei has delivered his porchetta, made from Italian pigs, to Panificio Bonci in Rome on the day you happen to be visiting.

Making porchetta at home is well worth it, especially if you can source a boneless pork loin with the belly still attached. You’ll probably have to special order it, so let your butcher know you’re making porchetta. Ask them to butterfly the loin for easier seasoning and to score the skin for easier rolling (and crisping). The meat dry brines overnight, then slow-roasts with little fuss. Just make sure the whole thing fits in your oven before you get started. If you can’t find a single belly-loin cut, use individual pieces of boneless loin and skin-on pork belly (two and four pounds, respectively), and roll together instead.