Is this really a recipe? Debatable. Does it deserve a full page? Absolutely. That’s how Roman these objectively overcooked (in a great way!) hard-boiled eggs are. There’s no room for on-trend jammy yolks in this town. Once a staple of the city’s wine bars, eggs were boiled at home by the owner and brought in to help guests “absorb” the booze—turns out a little protein and fat actually do help. You can still spot them at a few old-school haunts. At Il Goccetto, they’re halved and topped with a dab of anchovy sauce (but not enough to hide the telltale gray ring around the yolk). My favorite version is at Il Vinaietto near Largo Argentina, where they sit in a tower on the bar next to rice-stuffed salt shakers. Peel, season, and let the sulfurous funk fill the room.